The day started with an early morning run with Pepe our manic Italian driver who took us from Sorrento to Naples in just under an hour. Not a bad effort we thought considering the traffic and the road as wide as a large footpath.
The flight from Naples to Athens only took an hour and forty minutes, just a hop really. The train from Athena airport to the city took nearly that long. We were still mighty glad to find our hotel and put our feet up for a while anyway, because the heat was very draining.
As usual, after a shower and a freshen up we took off to explore our local surroundings. As luck would have it we had arrived on a public holiday, so most of the shops were closed and did not present the city in its best light. In fact it looked down right dead and scungy, sorry to say. Everywhere, but everywhere is covered in graffiti and more graffiti. On the monuments, on the churches, on the sides of vending machines, on the trains and buses, everywhere. It must be a manifestation of the youth unemployment here or the general dissatisfaction with the government. Certainly the graffiti is in wide abundance.
A quick stroll down to Syntagma square was in order. This is the location of the Greek parliament and noted for the ceremonial garb and drill of the soldiers who stand guard outside it. While they may look kinda strange in their pleated skirts and with pompoms on their shoes they are nonetheless trained and serving soldiers of an elite Greek unit. Like the Swiss Guard at the Vatican, to dismiss these troops out of hand based on their "poofy" uniforms would be a BIG mistake.
They pop up in the most unexpected places and the McDonalds at Syntagma Square is no exception. Try the Greek Mac or the McShrimp burger. We'll post up a link to some piccies as soon as we can.
Tuesday, 25 June 2013
Slight Technical Hitch
Due to a slight technical hitch (we left our tablet back in Sorrento) posts to the blog will be slightly delayed while we lay our hands on some other means of accessing the internet.
Right now we're in an internet cafe in Athens having a Corona and orange juice, so as you see we are surviving.
We'll post again as soon as we can so stay with us, and watch this space.
Pictures for Pompeii and Athens will be also be posted when we have re-established our connection properly.
Right now we're in an internet cafe in Athens having a Corona and orange juice, so as you see we are surviving.
We'll post again as soon as we can so stay with us, and watch this space.
Pictures for Pompeii and Athens will be also be posted when we have re-established our connection properly.
Sunday, 23 June 2013
Pompeii
Everybody has heard about the volcanic eruption in 79 AD which destroyed the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Vesuvius has erupted 12 times since then, most recently in 1944. It has in effect sealed in a time capsule the life of ancient Rome in Pompeii. To see the actual site with Vesuvius brooding in the background makes real the things we only read about in books or saw in movies.
The site is much larger than we anticipated with an entire city laid out before us. We saw domestic dwellings, shopping centres, theatres, amphitheatres, barracks for the gladiators, temples and the forerunner of the modern day speed hump. True, the streets were made well below the level of the footpath and were often awash with water and waste. Large stepping stones were installed across the roads at regular intervals so people could cross without getting wet They were always set in groups of three so the chariot wheels could track through the gaps, but only if the driver slowed and went through carefully.
There were casts of Pompeiians who were caught in the last moments of their lives, a chilling thing to see as their postures cry out pain and anguish. After almost two millenia there is still visible colour in the mosaics and frescoes. There are also examples of ancient graffiti left on walls, so that does not appear to be just a modern problem.
We went to Pompeii as early as possible and we're very glad we did. The circumvesuviana was not so crowded we couldn't get a seat, the on-board buskers played a croaky version of When the Saints Come Marching In and best of all we beat the heat and the tour groups. Both are a nightmare and after about 11 am neither can be avoided. Unfortunately the Suburban Baths with their famous erotic mosaics was not open to the public so we could not take any pictures for you. But from the excellent illustrations of them in our guide book ancient Rome certainly was, er, broadminded.
The rest of the day was spent cooling off with gelatis and lounging around in the pool at the hotel. Not a bad day really. We said our farewells to Sorrento with a lovely dinner at Tasso's Ristorante which we can highly recommend should you be lucky enough to visit there.
Click here for pictures of Pompeii.
The site is much larger than we anticipated with an entire city laid out before us. We saw domestic dwellings, shopping centres, theatres, amphitheatres, barracks for the gladiators, temples and the forerunner of the modern day speed hump. True, the streets were made well below the level of the footpath and were often awash with water and waste. Large stepping stones were installed across the roads at regular intervals so people could cross without getting wet They were always set in groups of three so the chariot wheels could track through the gaps, but only if the driver slowed and went through carefully.
There were casts of Pompeiians who were caught in the last moments of their lives, a chilling thing to see as their postures cry out pain and anguish. After almost two millenia there is still visible colour in the mosaics and frescoes. There are also examples of ancient graffiti left on walls, so that does not appear to be just a modern problem.
We went to Pompeii as early as possible and we're very glad we did. The circumvesuviana was not so crowded we couldn't get a seat, the on-board buskers played a croaky version of When the Saints Come Marching In and best of all we beat the heat and the tour groups. Both are a nightmare and after about 11 am neither can be avoided. Unfortunately the Suburban Baths with their famous erotic mosaics was not open to the public so we could not take any pictures for you. But from the excellent illustrations of them in our guide book ancient Rome certainly was, er, broadminded.
The rest of the day was spent cooling off with gelatis and lounging around in the pool at the hotel. Not a bad day really. We said our farewells to Sorrento with a lovely dinner at Tasso's Ristorante which we can highly recommend should you be lucky enough to visit there.
Click here for pictures of Pompeii.
Saturday, 22 June 2013
The Isle of Capri
A 30 minute ferry ride from Sorrento is the Isle of Capri. This is a mecca for the rich and famous and us! On arrival, once again in the heat we had a plan to follow. The island is almost divided geographically into three parts. There is a higher plateau where Anacapri is situated and large rocky steep cliffs that overlook the lower section of the island where the town of Capri is situated. On the other side of Capri the land rises again. The Marina Grande is where the boats come in. In order to get to Anacapri we took a bus and once again rode the sardine special with death defying Italian drivers! The roads are extremely narrow but the drivers manage to manoeuvre the buses around hairpin bends and between walls and other cars. If the road trip on the Amalfi coastline was scary, then the bus trip up to Anacapri was terrifying! The road is never wider than a footpath in the botanic gardens but nevertheless is 2 way. At times a sheer drop of 400 meters or more is only the width of a hand railing from the edge of the road. The buses themselves are about a half length shortened version of a standard bus with steering that can turn inside its own length. They seem made for the hairpin bends and steep climbing they need to do.
Anacapri is small and mountainous with magnificent views overlooking the island and the Mediterranean. While we were there we went on the Mount Salaro chairlift which is 429 m but the mount is actually 600 m above sea level. It is the highest point on the island and you can see the entire island from the terrace at the top. Over a granita we looked at probably the loveliest views in Italy.
Capri beckoned so we took another death defying bus trip down that God-awful road to the central hub of the island. Here they have up market shops for the well heeled tourists such as Salvatore Ferrano, Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, Swarovski and others. The fashions, shoes and bags were beautiful but a tad out of our league.
Unfortunately we didn't manage to see Villa Jovis which is the remains of the Emperor Tiberius' villa. This is situated high up at the other end of the island. There is no transport to it and it can only be reached on foot and only after some serious climbing. We were told it would take around 90 minutes to reach it and best tackled in the early morning. We had a ferry to catch so unfortunately it was out of the question.
Various ways of getting around on the island are by bus (shudder) by open topped taxi, motorbikes and the famous funicular. This is a great way to get from Capri to the Marina Grande. It only takes 3 minutes and travels in a straight line between the two, so its steep. In fact it's so steep each little compartment in the cable tram are individually tilted just so you can stand up in them. Great fun.
The ferry ride back to Sorrento was smooth with most of the passengers falling asleep. That could well have something to do with the climbing required on any visit to the island though.
Click here for pictures of the Isle of Capri.
Click here for pictures of the Isle of Capri.
The Amalfi Coast
We set off bright and early to get the SITA bus from Circumvesuviana station to take us to Positano and Amalfi for the day. We made sure we were early to ensure a seat on the bus. Once again it was the sardine special with people standing. We now understand why the Italians are world class motorbike and formula one drivers. The practise and experience they get on Italian roads defies description. The coastal road up the Amalfi coast is narrow and winding with little room for 2 cars or error! Added to that is the sheer drop in many parts into the beautiful blue Mediterranean. It was cosy in the bus as once again it was warm.
After a while the bus pulled into Positano but due to a mix-up we missed the stop and before we knew it we were leaving Positano! Oh well, you need to be flexible and stress less so we carried on regardless, or should I say the bus did. We arrived in Amalfi one and a half hours from the time we left Sorrento. By the time we arrived in Amalfi it was very hot. The place was abuzz with tourists. We sauntered up the viales looking at shops and yes we even got gelati. After checking out the Cathedral of San Andrew who is buried there, we decided to leave Amalfi and take a bus up to Ravello approximately 9 kilometres further up into the hills.
Ravello is well known for the classical music concerts it holds there each year. The performances are held in Villa Rufolo, a very old villa now owned by the government. Once Richard Wagner stayed there and was inspired and overwhelmed by the beauty of the place. The concerts are held in Wagner's memory. There are performances from May to August and we had hoped to attend one but transportation was a problem so alas we missed out. The orchestra performs on a stage overlooking the Mediterranean. It would have been magical but perhaps another time.
Ravello is a smaller less touristy place and very pretty. We went into the gardens of Villa Rufolo and enjoyed the refreshing cooler green gardens flowers and old buildings. We saw the stage and seats organised in preparation for the concert that night. The village has its piazza as does all good villages and we sat and watched the passing parade, saw cats and took a rest. There were viale to investigate so we started to walk. Up and up past small shops, a convent connected to Saint Francis of Assisi, a very friendly cat that decided to lick my leg, past old high walls hiding lush green gardens and mini vineyards. We finally stopped for a break and panini in a beautifully set terrace with tall shady trees and more cats!
Reluctantly we left Ravello, a beautiful place and headed back down to Amalfi in an open top bus which was refreshing given the heat. We decided to have one more walk around and a gelati before we caught the ferry back to Sorrento. While we were wandering we came across a wedding party and a bride who looked magnificent as she walked up the many steps of San Andrew's church.
In an attempt to stay cool we sat in the shade under an umbrella and sipped Limoncello. This part of Italy is famous for its lemon based alcohol drink.
Taking the ferry back from Amalfi is an ideal way to get the best view of that magnificent coastline. Many people were shooting photos during the ride and so were we.
Did I mention that Sorrento is on top of a cliff? Well naturally a boat can't drop you off near your hotel, so you have to climb. After walking from the harbour down the man-made gorge there are 126 stone steps to reach the town square at the top. It can be quite a workout on a hot day after a full day's sight seeing.
Click here for pictures of Amalfi coast.
After a while the bus pulled into Positano but due to a mix-up we missed the stop and before we knew it we were leaving Positano! Oh well, you need to be flexible and stress less so we carried on regardless, or should I say the bus did. We arrived in Amalfi one and a half hours from the time we left Sorrento. By the time we arrived in Amalfi it was very hot. The place was abuzz with tourists. We sauntered up the viales looking at shops and yes we even got gelati. After checking out the Cathedral of San Andrew who is buried there, we decided to leave Amalfi and take a bus up to Ravello approximately 9 kilometres further up into the hills.
Ravello is well known for the classical music concerts it holds there each year. The performances are held in Villa Rufolo, a very old villa now owned by the government. Once Richard Wagner stayed there and was inspired and overwhelmed by the beauty of the place. The concerts are held in Wagner's memory. There are performances from May to August and we had hoped to attend one but transportation was a problem so alas we missed out. The orchestra performs on a stage overlooking the Mediterranean. It would have been magical but perhaps another time.
Ravello is a smaller less touristy place and very pretty. We went into the gardens of Villa Rufolo and enjoyed the refreshing cooler green gardens flowers and old buildings. We saw the stage and seats organised in preparation for the concert that night. The village has its piazza as does all good villages and we sat and watched the passing parade, saw cats and took a rest. There were viale to investigate so we started to walk. Up and up past small shops, a convent connected to Saint Francis of Assisi, a very friendly cat that decided to lick my leg, past old high walls hiding lush green gardens and mini vineyards. We finally stopped for a break and panini in a beautifully set terrace with tall shady trees and more cats!
Reluctantly we left Ravello, a beautiful place and headed back down to Amalfi in an open top bus which was refreshing given the heat. We decided to have one more walk around and a gelati before we caught the ferry back to Sorrento. While we were wandering we came across a wedding party and a bride who looked magnificent as she walked up the many steps of San Andrew's church.
In an attempt to stay cool we sat in the shade under an umbrella and sipped Limoncello. This part of Italy is famous for its lemon based alcohol drink.
Taking the ferry back from Amalfi is an ideal way to get the best view of that magnificent coastline. Many people were shooting photos during the ride and so were we.
Did I mention that Sorrento is on top of a cliff? Well naturally a boat can't drop you off near your hotel, so you have to climb. After walking from the harbour down the man-made gorge there are 126 stone steps to reach the town square at the top. It can be quite a workout on a hot day after a full day's sight seeing.
Click here for pictures of Amalfi coast.
Friday, 21 June 2013
Arrival in Sorrento
We took the train from Rome to Napoli and this was one of highlights of the entire trip for Tony because most of the trip we were travelling at or above 300 kph. The Italian super-fast train is called the Frecciarossa (Red Arrow) and is so smooth and comfortable people can often doze off on the way. It didn't even ripple our complimentary glass of juice it was so smooth. The trip takes 70 minutes and it is on the dot.
After wading through the pickpockets and other "helpful" people at Napoli Centrale, the next train was a little different for the run from Naples to Sorrento. The Circumvesuviana is a diseased old beast that resembles an old suburban train wreck. It is thick with graffiti and rattles and clatters through about 30 stations on the way. Air conditioning is non existent and remarkably the trip takes 70 minutes, the same as from Rome to Naples. It seemed a hell of a lot longer though. Colour is also provided by some sort of on-board buskers who play music or do turns and then hustle the travellers for some money. It was stifling hot, crowded with people all talking different languages and quite an experience.
We poured off the train dripping with perspiration and sought out the nearest Gelati shop and then our hotel. The room wasn't ready yet so we cooled off with a couple of Gin and Tonics while we waited. Actually with the heat and thirst and on an empty stomach G&T's were probably not such a good idea. Jackie and I were actively engaged in particularly difficult level of Angry Birds when the receptionist came and told us the room was ready.
A quick shower and freshen up and we had a look around Sorrento. It is actually quite a small place with narrow cobbled streets full of small and interesting shops. Being set on a cliff dropping straight into the Mediterranean sea the views are breathtaking. The very imposing presence of Mt Vesuvius can be clearly seen across the bay.
Tomorrow we will be tackling the Amalfi Coast.
Click here for pictures of Sorrento.
After wading through the pickpockets and other "helpful" people at Napoli Centrale, the next train was a little different for the run from Naples to Sorrento. The Circumvesuviana is a diseased old beast that resembles an old suburban train wreck. It is thick with graffiti and rattles and clatters through about 30 stations on the way. Air conditioning is non existent and remarkably the trip takes 70 minutes, the same as from Rome to Naples. It seemed a hell of a lot longer though. Colour is also provided by some sort of on-board buskers who play music or do turns and then hustle the travellers for some money. It was stifling hot, crowded with people all talking different languages and quite an experience.
We poured off the train dripping with perspiration and sought out the nearest Gelati shop and then our hotel. The room wasn't ready yet so we cooled off with a couple of Gin and Tonics while we waited. Actually with the heat and thirst and on an empty stomach G&T's were probably not such a good idea. Jackie and I were actively engaged in particularly difficult level of Angry Birds when the receptionist came and told us the room was ready.
A quick shower and freshen up and we had a look around Sorrento. It is actually quite a small place with narrow cobbled streets full of small and interesting shops. Being set on a cliff dropping straight into the Mediterranean sea the views are breathtaking. The very imposing presence of Mt Vesuvius can be clearly seen across the bay.
Tomorrow we will be tackling the Amalfi Coast.
Click here for pictures of Sorrento.
Thursday, 20 June 2013
The adventure continues
Due to size limitations we have to continue on another blog.
Please click on the link below to return to Part 2.
Click here to return to Part 2.
Please click on the link below to return to Part 2.
Click here to return to Part 2.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)